RED has also introduced a new and improved color science called REDCOLOR and a gamma setting called REDGAMMA. They have also introduced a new technology called FLUT. The way FLUT works is that it moves increases the usable range of the image without ever clipping the highlights. This makes for wider histograms and allows much more usable image area to be used. Just a reminder that the post technology improves all images captured in an .r3d file to date. When I loaded tungsten images captured two years ago on previous camera builds, the shots were greatly improved by the new algorithm decoding the RAW data.
With the new sensor the change is even more dramatic because the sensor has a significantly lower noise floor. 2000 ISO can be a very acceptable ISO for capturing low light images now because the sensor has very good tolerance in the blacks. When you boost a shot, there is not any noise to boost because the sensor is capturing such a clean image.
While the sensor is not any "faster" because it is still rated at 320 ISO, you can feel more comfortable going to 500, 640 or 800 because the image is noise free.
According to Ted, RED scrutinizes the image pretty closely. As part of their low light testing on the new sensor, they put the images up on a 4K projector in a theater to pick out the deficiencies. Projecting the images in this resolution allows them to see pretty quickly if the image is breaking down.
RED has also streamlined its offering of free software decoding tools. Previously there was REDALERT, REDCINE, and REDRUSHES. They have blending these tools into one application called REDCINE-X and they have also added a GPU R3D realtime playback and render acceleration card called the REDROCKET (at USD $4750.00 it is not inexpensive, but it does rip through R3D decoding).
"how does that pan out exactly related to your base stop?"
This depends on where you set your mid grey bbut as a rule when highlights clip they are gone, there is much more DR in the blacks than in the top end.
"is it best to set it at 800 for both int and ext and just ND it to hell or adjust accordingly?"
Red recomends that the the ISO be set to 800. I tend to do this. I always set the ISO to 320 and light accordingly looking at the histogram for cliping, etc.
If i want to protect highlights then I set the ISO to 500. By doing this you are effectively "stopping down" to ensure that you do not over expose the shot.
It depends on your level of comfort, if you know the sensor and the camera and you expose to the right you get great shots at 320, but you leave little room for margin of error.
I always monitor the RAW file and I set the Color temperature to 5000 (the sensors native setting) so I see exactly what the sensor is seeing.
I find the the sensor likes more light. WHen exposed properly with a lot of light it looks best. Starve it from light and you can count on more noise. I try to stay away from noise.
13.5 stops is amazing - how does that pan out exactly related to your base stop? - also regarding the iso setting - is it best to set it at 800 for both int and ext and just ND it to hell or adjust accordingly? - what are your suggestions? - am new to this site so please forgive me if these are repeated questions
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